Bom Dia do Olhão, Portugal! Olá! Como estás ?

 

(we do not have internet yet so I am using wifi at a cafe-apologize for errors...)

 

 If you know some Spanish you can probably recognize these words…BUT when I hear them spoken it sounds more like Russian!  There are more shhh and essh sounds which makes the language so difficult.  (ex: Como estás is pronounced like one word “comstash”).  But it is certainly fun trying.  Never fear though, Portugal is ranked 7^th in the world for people speaking English so we get by.  Our first few days have been exhausting, challenging, and confusing yet at the same time interesting, enriching, safe, and joyous.  We have navigated getting our home internet/TV/cell phone sim card/home phone set up (all together about $60 month), finding our bank to apply for a debit card, locating free wifi at the local cafes and doing our first small shopping for items we couldn’t bring.

But back to the beginning….Our flights were long, totaling 40 hours of travel through 4 countries. We flew from Portland, OR to Dallas,TX then over the pond to Amsterdam, then London and finally to Faro International Airport about 30 minutes west of Olhão (pronounced ol-OW).  Fortunately we had between 2-4 hours layovers at each stop so we were never rushed.  I must admit the choosing of Business Class seats was smart as we boarded first, were fed well, and were able to comfortably sleep-yes even on a plane!

Our rental unit in Olhão is a totally remodeled one-bedroom condo/apartment in a 4 story building right in the middle of the historic “fisherman’s old town”.  We found this home through an online leasing platform and signed a one-year lease (which was required for our visa).  It has turned out even better than we anticipated in that it is as if we moved into a newly built building (but it’s probably old) that is completely furnished down to the towels and kitchen utensils!  In Portugal each apartment/condo is individually owned so we rent directly from the owner.  We have a locked street entrance door that leads into the landing, a large elevator to the 2^nd floor (actually the 3^rd because the first floor is called the ground floor), and there are only 4 apartments on each floor. Our long address identifies where we live:  Rua Carlos da Maia (the street), Edificio Grémio (building on Grémio Square), 43-2°Trás (#43-2^nd floor rear).  Once inside we have a camera and buzzer to admit people at the street door.  The apartments are identified not by number or letter but by “right, left, front and rear” and we have two large sliding doors with a balcony that faces the church.  The area is on a quiet side street and since we face the back side there is no car or walking noise.  Oh… but there is the church that we see and the bells that ring hourly and play a short corallione at odd times (like 5:30 pm).  Maybe one of our Catholic friends can shed some light on this for us.  One night we listened to a live performer on a nearby hotel rooftop bar.  The oddest thing is the big black Portuguese water dog (?) that lives in the building across the “alley”.  He is let out and scampers up two floors of an outside cement staircase to reach the rooftop where maybe there is grass? I guess he’s done this since he was a pup.

Our landlady lives next door and seems quite nice, although she doesn’t speak any English so we do the international hand gestures, smiles and nodding of heads.   I discovered we have a manual for the washing/dryer machine in English but haven’t used it yet.  We’ll also need instruction on using the Nespresso coffee machine and the stove with its induction touch-screen ceramic cooking surface.  We haven’t done any meal prep yet (by day 4) because the restaurants are delightful and very reasonably priced and we LOVE to eat.    

This is a major fishing port so every restaurant serves daily caught fish prepared in just about any method plus a variety of basic beef dishes. The “Prato do dia” (daily special) is our preference because we don’t have to decipher the menu!  We have had fried mixed fish plate, at least 6 whole small fish, served with rice & sliced tomatoes; meat empanada which turned out to be like a shepherd pie with a lettuce salad; and a “schnitzel-like” veal with fries and, of course lettuce salad with tomatoes and sliced onion. 

 

 These meals are always more than we can finish and cost between 6-8 euros each (about $7.50 - $9.50).  They usually include wine or beer and espresso and of course fresh French bread with a small bowl of olives.  

 

 Today we tried the restaurant in Grémio Square outside our condo called Via e Volta.  It is only open for lunch and is packed each day.  No wonder…at 13€ for “all-you-can-eat” grilled fish with sides of sweet potatoes and boiled golden potatoes, chopped tomato salad, and a delicious dish of garlicy milk soaked bread (that’s the best I can describe).  And course olives & bread. 

Since we only had to walk 50 meters back to our condo, we happily consumed a liter of white wine and finished with an espresso.  All this was 33€  together (gratuity is included but we topped the bill up with 1,60€). Customers spoke Portuguese, German, French, British English and American English and the chef/staff conversed in all these languages!  What a delight and I’m sure we will become regulars.  

 Okay enough about the food.

 

 

Olhão is a small city/town with about 44,000 people that dates back to 1378 and played a major role in the struggles again Napoleon’s invading troops and ancient maritime industry.  Since we are in the “old town” it feels much smaller with a warren of narrow, twisting streets.  We won’t have a car but can walk within 5-15 minutes to the local grocery store, bank, department stores, and sports fields and other necessary shops.  The long water’s edge embarcadero is lined with restaurants and the huge daily fish mercado and produce market is always the morning bustle.  (more on that in another post).

 

The old streets and “sidewalks” in are cobblestones which can make walking a bit tough on the feet and calves.  We enjoy wandering the narrow streets without getting lost because we are always close to the boat docks even after dark.  The square-sided white houses (or “cubes” which is what the fisherman homes were called) have windows and parapets edged iron laced railings.  Some of the second stories are now converted into two flats.  Many have original wooden shutters, colored ornate wooden doors and the typical Portuguese Azuelijos (ceramic tiles) on the exterior.  Even the old, ramshackled buildings that aren’t yet remodeled have charm.

 

After the first few days we are settling into a slower pace watching some Portuguese TV (horrible old game shows) and catching up on sleep.  Our landlady treated us with three kinds of small cakes, fruit, wine & beer as we moved in so we are fine for a few days.  Now to go find some free wifi and another espresso.

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Nine Reasons Why We are Moving to Portugal

A day doesn't go by without someone asking us "WHY" when we mention that we are moving to Portugal.  That's a very good question and one that we have searched out deepest thoughts to answer. So here are 9 very personal reasons.

1. CIVILITY Does it matter?  I read that a survey on Civility in America finds that 70 percent of respondents believe that incivility in the US has risen to "crisis" levels.  (ncsl.org) .  We are sick of the disrespect, lawless behavior and increased gun violence.  We want to live in a less violent country.  Portugal is rated as the 4th safest country in the world for criminality and political instability (USA is #122).

2.  TRAVEL OPPORTUNITIES We love to travel to immerse ourselves in new cultures and settings.  We are limited to 90 days in Europe on our US passport and becoming EU Residents (Portugal) puts us closer to countries we want to visit and eliminates the time restrictions.

3.  FINANCE Cost of living in Portugal is 30-40% less than in the US...more travel money!

4.  IMMERSION in other cultures, languages, lifestyles have always intrigued us and we find its the best kind of "travel" there is.

5.  HEALTH CARE Portugal has "World Class" health care offering much lower costs both in the private sector and the public services.

6.  FOOD & WINE Who can deny that Portugal is blessed with some of the best opportunities to indulge in fresh daily seafood, Port wine and European desserts.  

7.  ADVENTURE & CHALLENGE We are not naive to think that our move will be without its ups and downs.  What better way to "keep young" and "healthy".

 8.  SIMPLIFIED LIFE We are looking forward to life without a car, being able to walk to grocery stores, stroll along the seashore and simply absorb a slower lifestyle.  Portugal is reported to have some of the friendliest people who will always welcome you and try to make you feel at home.

9.  POLITICS Portugal transitioned from dictatorship to democracy in 1975 after the non-violent Carnation Revolution.  In that short time has become a stable, progressive, center-left government. How did Portugal manage to have the World's Highest COVID-19 Vaccination Rate?  Leaving politics out of it and generally having a positive attitude towards national vaccination programs, Portugal has reached 85% of vaccinated people.  

Living as expats we will not be local but also not tourists.  We will not be on vacation but carry on daily life.  We will learn how to navigate everyday life without a car, in a country we don't speak the language and leasing an apartment (which we haven't done for 50 years!).  

But we are up for the challenge-why not??

18 Months in the Making

We began toying with the idea of moving to a foreign country in August 2020 in the midst of the pandemic and our self-imposed isolation in our Airstream trailer while volunteering with the US Forest Service at Mesa Falls in eastern Idaho.  

Volunteering at Mesa Falls Idaho 2020

 

We participated in two full days of online training conference offered by International Living on moving to Panama.  We heard from lawyers, Medicare experts, accounts, retirees, relocation specialists-- all who were experts in helping people understand that we can do this!  While this was a great soft landing to the idea of moving, we decided we wanted to be in Europe rather than Central America.  So began the journey "down the rabbit hole" (Def.:  transporting someone into a wonderfully (or troublingly) surreal state or situation-Dictionary.com).  

 

This process just 10 years ago would have been very different without the numerous online groups, websites, podcasts and simply the ease of global communication.  By far the most resourceful community group we have found is Americans & Friends in Portugal with 18,000 members all interested in Portugal.  

 This group give accurate and current information, advise, links, chat groups, and sample documents for obtaining a Resident Visa for Portugal.  Who would think there could be so many topics: drivers license exchange, where-to-live, D7 visa, shipping personal effects, pets to Portugal, mail forwarding, phones & internet, expat holiday blues, and even hiking/biking and food/wine.  The reading was never ending.  

 

 

Pastel de Nata - Portuguese popular custard tart

When we finally understood enough we got started on the D7 Residence Visa back in May 2021.  In a nutshell, on August 27th we over-nighted two applications (maximum of 50 pages each) to the Portuguese Embassy/Consulate in Washington D.C. and began the long wait for approval.  It is an extensive process requiring consulting and paying for Portuguese legal and financial help, opening a Portuguese bank account, finding and committing to a year-long lease on an apartment (sight-unseen) and of course packing.  We thought we had "down-sized" when we sold our house 11 years ago and began full-time RVing!  We now have all our worldly possessions in 4 large checked suitcases, a golf bag and two carry-on bags.  

So now the big day is arriving.  We will fly from Portland, Oregon with plane changes in Texas, Amsterdam and London before arriving the following evening in Faro, Portugal. To make the entire 30-some hour journey a little more palatable we are using air miles and booked business class seats.

Next time: Our first look at the Algarve in Portugal